Tirich Mir

The Tirich Mir is a chain of about eleven peaks with different routes to their submits.

Tirich Mir main peak 7,708m is the highest peak of the Hindukush Mountain range and was first climbed in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition which was lead by Arne Naess. the famous Norwegian philosopher, other expedition members were P. Kvern berg and H. Berg.

Tirich Mir East with a height of 7,692m was another first Norwegian ascent done later in 1964 . Two members, R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reached top of Tirich Mir East

Tirich Mir West II , 7,500m was climbed in 1974 by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an Italian expedition. After establishing base camp, the party set up two additional camps. In order to acclimatize itself with high altitude climbing, the party also climbed an already-climbed Dir gol Zom peak.

On July 20 1967 Tirich Mir West I , 7487m was climbed through the north west col by a Czechoslovak expedition led by Engineer Vladimir Sedovy. J. Cervinka, I. Galfy, V. Smida and I. Urbanovic reached the top. The Czech expedition had not a single oxygen flask nor did they fix ropes.

Tirich Mir West III 7,400m was climbed in 1974 by Groupe Universitaire de Montagne et de Ski of France and was led by Guy Lucazeau and Bernard Amy. The sixth peak of the Tirich Mir range is Tirich Mir West IV - 7,338m. It was climbed in 1967 by Kurt Diemberger and Dietmar Proske through the very difficult north face. Diemberger also made the first circle around the Tirich Mirs. The purpose was to carry-out geological survey of the area.

Another interesting peak in the Tirich Mir range is un-named with a height of 7,100m. This peak is situated to the south of Tirich Mir Main peak.. The northern spur of Tirich Mir at 7,056m was climbed in 1965 by Kurt Diemberger, Herwig Handler and Fritz Lindner of a German - Austrian expedition.

Tirich Mir Little 6,550m was climbed in 1969 by the British-Pak Army Mountaineering expedition which was led by Maj. J. W. Fleming of the British Army.


Expedition to the main peak traverse the Lower Tirich Glacier which later branches out into upper and lower Tirich glacier. Base camp is set at Babu camp 4724m named after Babu Hindukush Trails famous local guide still around. The jeep road goes as far as Shahgrom 2760m but an alternate route over Zani pass 3840m is an excellent way to do a short trek to Shahgrom both to acclimatize and get a good perspective of the major peak before you reach Shahgrom.

While other expedition are attempted through the Norwegians route via Barum village into the upper Barum glaciers

Itinerary . Flexible expeditions itineraries are made by us looking at your requirements and demands.

For Istro-Nal. 7,403 m, Saragharar 7,349 m and other major peaks in the Hindukush & hindu Raj contact our office for details.

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